"His Ducal Signet Ring!"
An early rise and I was on a train for Venice. It was one of those trains that one sees in the movies quite frequently with compartments on one side with a corridor on the other side of the car. I was secretly delighted, despite the dinginess of the rail car, and wondered if there would be a murder or some of the other excitement that is common to these sorts of rail cars. Unfortunately there were no unusual deaths on the train that required me and a few intrepid travelers to solve it before we got to our final stop in Ferrara, and I finished a rather poorly written novel (you'll pay for that Mr Excitement, mark my words).
We approached Venice, rolling more slowly through the land part of Venice, which seemed unremarkable, when I suddenly was overcome with a lot of trepidation. What the hell was I doing? Venice had no roads for God's sakes! I could drown! How would I get to my hotel? The whole thing was multiplied when I caught sight of the water. Panic! Somehow I muddled through and found myself standing by the Grand Canal, in some disbelief that I was even there.
It was as impressive as I thought it would be, and lived up to all my expectations. The whole thing was terribly remarkable, if only for being an ancient city that was essentially unchanged in the modern world. While there is something of the Disney/theme park feel, it is undercut by the fact that this place functions: there are drinks and food delivered to the restaurants; hotels have supplies; and newsstands have periodicals. Where does it all come from? It's quite impressive in that regard.
Traveling to my hotel turned out not to be as difficult as I had thought it would, although I'd be lying if I said I figured it out myself (the addressing system alone on the damned island is mystifying). But I was soon on a vaporetto , or water bus, to the Saint Mark's area and then trudging through narrow alleyways to my hotel (this place has no wide streets to speak of at all - it's all just narrow alleys, some hiding amazing places.
aside: No wonder the Venetians ruled the seas! You can smell the sea at any canal. Two trips on the vaporetto and had to work to regain my land legs on arrival. Imagine living there all the time...
I didn't have much time in the city so I spent the majority of my time in the Piazza San Marco and specifically in the Doge's Palace. What an amazing place that is - I had no idea that the role of the Doge was mostly as a figurehead for the Senate and the various other councils that ruled Venice. It's amazing that they lasted so long and were so powerful with their government as complex as it was. Finally the scene in Othello where he is called back before the Council of Ten to finalize the plans for attacking Cyprus make sense. The Venetian Republic put a lot of work into projecting their strength, first to their citizens and then to the external world. Mind you I am exactly the type of mind they were trying to impress I think since that sort of "majesty and strength of the State" stuff always gets me.
I wandered around the city on foot, to get a feel for the place. It's labyrinthine and confusing. I can't imagine growing up here and learning to find your way back home from the corner store. There is a system - sort of - and you can get around by following the signs to the bridges that cross the Grand Canal, but there's a nagging feeling that there's a better way to get around. Still I can't complain too much, without all that walking around I wouldn't have happened upon a live band playing Glenn Miller's In the Mood in a piazza - wonderful.
The last thing I'll mention is dinner, where I found a place right by the hotel and was seated out front. I ate in silence, just watching the crowds, and trying to savor my food. The couple that was seated next to me, Stuart and Linda, turned and started to talk to me. I was so taken aback that it took me a few minutes to calm down and have a proper conversation, but when I got into it I was quite pleased. They were British and Scottish respectively and quite down to earth and pleasant. We ended up talking a lot longer than I thought, and looking back at it I see what happens when I say 'Yes'.
Comments
I haven't gotten to Italy yet, even though I've been in Germany for 3 years now, but I WILL get there somehow before I leave Europe. Venice is top on my list. Sorry you didn't have anyone to dance with when the band played In the Mood! I had a friend stay with me for a while before going off to tour Italy alone, and he complained about Venice being the most romantic place he'd ever been, and not being able to enjoy it alone.
Posted by: Rae | August 16, 2006 2:11 PM
It would have been nice to dance with someone in St Mark's but I guess there is just no predicting that sort of thing ... still an amazing experience, though.
Posted by: Lo Fat Mo | August 17, 2006 10:06 PM
Earlier today, I walked down the street and searched the Target parking lot for loose change. It was exotic.
This is my way of expressing that I am green with envy in regards to your travels. I am enjoying your description of events quite a bit, and were you a travel host on a PBS show, I would watch you during their pledge drive and donate enough to get your series of DVDs AND the special carrying case shaped like Rick Steve's ass.
Posted by: iain | August 21, 2006 1:56 PM
I didn't know they could mold plastic into that sort of shape ...
Anyway you flatter me, Iain, I do what any red-blooded Murrkan would do (who happened to be literate and actually left this continent).
Posted by: Lo Fat Mo | August 21, 2006 8:01 PM
Did you just phonetically refer to yourself as a 'merkin'?
I've spent a dizzying day on my couch. Please excuse me.
Posted by: Boegle | September 16, 2006 7:29 PM
Shorten the "i" and it makes all the sense in the world ... and I know what you are thinking. I am not indeed a merkin.
Posted by: Lo Fat Mo | September 17, 2006 8:57 PM